The-Never-to-Be-Forgotten Playing-Card Game
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.......This game wasn't included in the mini-book.
There's no mini-book anymore.
This is basically the 3rd game in the
earlier mini-book 10,000 Rummy, Etc. further elaborated.
This is for you to trip out on!
I suggest you play the 3rd game instead of trying to play this one.
After all, you don't have anyone to help show you how to play.
Please feel free to compare this with the 3rd game in the earlier mini-book.
.......This game was basically written before the 3rd game.
The 3rd game basically retains the best and simplest rules of this game.
And many of the rules of this game have been simplified for the 3rd game.
.......You may want to note in particular the "Going Rummy" section.
It allows you to not only go rummy with the top card of the discard pile yet any card in
the discard pile or with as many cards as you're able, and
you're able to call rummy "at any time."
.......Like the earlier mini-book, it's registered with the Library of Congress.
© Copyright 1993-2003 John James Davidson. All Rights Reserved.
.......These rules have been registered with the Library of Congress.
10,000 Rummy: Sublime Rummy: Masterpiece Version
.......This game is mostly for adults, safe to say, to read since it’s long.
Two to five people may play. This is an elaboration of 500 Rummy.
.......The author usually thought of rummy being like 500 Rummy, with the discard pile spread out.
This game is an elaboration of 500 Rummy, and it’s a really laid-back game.
This version can be addicting although there’s skimming involved to locate rules.
You may want to check out some point values in the
2nd paragraph of both “Groups” and “Sequences” before anything else.
.......This version is an elaboration of 500 Rummy in a few basic ways:
Like it’s always played using 104 cards, and you get to draw 2 from the stock pile.
There are wild cards, usually only 4, and you usually score more when
you meld them naturally, and you’re able to trade for them, and after
being discarded they’re not too easily taken up from the discard pile.
Wild cards and aces are worth an ample amount.
The point value for a group or sequence is usually considerably increased by adding just 1 card.
You score extra points for going out, and you must discard a card and it must be unmeldable.
You’re able to go rummy and go rummy with cards in the discard pile other than
just the top card of it.
.......And all these elaborations have been merged together and
merged allowing for very flexible play.
When it's your turn, you're very liable to have extremely good options or
be able to do something extreme.
And when it's your turn it's basically like this, you can't be told you can't do something when
it looks like you should be able to do it.
And fairly often all 104 cards become melded which looks really cool.
10,000 Rummy: Sublime Rummy: Masterpiece Version
Preliminaries
The Card Deck
The Deal
The Play
The Main Object
The Play
Melding
The Discard Pile
Melds
Wild Cards and Aces
Groups
Sequences
Wild-Card Groups
Trading for Wild Cards
Trading While Drawing
The End of a Hand
Going Out
No-Wild-Card Bonus
Scoring
Going Rummy
Supplementary Notes
Abbreviations and Symbol
Variations
10,000 Rummy: Sublime Rummy: Masterpiece Version
.......Two to five people may play.
Preliminaries
The Card Deck.
You play with a card deck of 104 cards of 13 ranks, 4 suits, and 2 colors. An ace may rank high
or low for a sequence.\ The other cards rank from a king, queen, jack (or princess), and 10
down to a 2.\
.......A joker (or Mother Nature) can be used as a replacement card if any other card gets
damaged or lost. Bridge-size cards (around 3 1/2 by 2 1/4") may be better to use than
poker-size cards (around 3 1/2 by 2 1/2") because of melding space and that they’re
easier to hold if holding a lot.
The Deal.
The cards are shuffled and cut. The cards are then spread out face down. Then, each person
draws 1 card, yet not any of the 4 cards at either end of the deck. The person who draws the
highest card deals the first hand. An ace ranks highest in choosing the first dealer.
If there’s a tie among the highest cards disregarding suits, the persons who drew these cards
draw another card.
.......You should write a miniature d on the paper the score is being kept, underneath
the person's name of who’s the first dealer. This helps keep track of who’ll be dealing each
hand.
.......Everyone who wants may shuffle or help shuffle the cards, although the dealer has the
privilege of shuffling last. Nearing the end of a shuffle, you should keep the bottom cards
from showing. The dealer then asks if anyone else wants to cut the cards, yet no one else must.
One or more persons, except the dealer, may cut. Yet if no one else cuts, the dealer must cut.
You must complete your cut, and both packets must contain at least 5 cards.
(Before the first hand is dealt, the cards are shuffled 1 time thoroughly and 1 time adequately
and cut 2 or more times.)
.......This is part of a good shuffle, in which you can use a card deck to see how it goes.
Deal the cards that were just used into a number of piles (clockwise in 2 rows); the
“number” is to be the length of what was the longest meld plus 3 or more (the longest
meld could’ve been an addition of 4 or more cards). Then of what was the
stock pile is split up onto these piles.
.......Each person is dealt all his/her cards all at once. The person at the dealer's left is
dealt all his/her cards first; the deal then continues clockwise. Each person's first card is
dealt face up; this card shows the total number of cards the person is dealt; the rest of
his/her cards are dealt face down. For an ace, 14 more cards are dealt. For a face card or 10,
9 more cards are dealt. When a 9 to 2 is dealt face up for someone, the numerical value
(of the card) minus 1, cards are dealt to him/her face down. If a 5 were dealt face up for
someone then 4 more cards would be dealt to him/her face down. Until all the cards are dealt,
no one may pick up any of his/her cards and each person’s first card must stay showing.
.......After the deal, the undealt cards are set face down between the players and are called
the stock pile. The top card is turned face up and placed beside it as the
upcard, the first card of the discard pile. This first card is wild, and
is explained further under "Wild Cards and Aces."
.......The turn to deal passes clockwise.
The Play
The Main Object.
The main object is usually to make points by matching cards to make melds and by
going out. A meld is a group or sequence of 3 or more cards, or a 1- or
more card group or sequence addition. A group is made up of cards which are of
the same rank, or have the same index value, like a 3-card group of 5's. A sequence is a
consecutive order of cards in the same suit, like a 5, 6, and 7 of hearts.
.......Realize that when a hand ends points are subtracted from your score for any cards left
in your hand, especially for any wild cards and aces.
The Play.
The person at the dealer's left plays first; the play continues clockwise. To begin your turn,
you do 1 of 3 things:
.......1. You may draw 2 cards from the stock pile. If there’s only 1 card left in the
stock pile, you may draw the card for your draw.
.......2. You may draw a card below the top card of the discard pile if you meld it, and
take in or meld all the cards above it.
.......3. You may draw the top card of the discard pile without having to meld it. (You may
meld it, though, if you want. You could discard this same card if you want. There being
a stock pile and everyone 3 rounds in a row drew the top card of the discard pile without
melding, the hand would end with points reckoned after the last person discarded; with the
wording of these rules, you always draw only 1 card from the discard pile; however other cards
further up within it may help meld the card you're drawing.)
.......You may then meld or meld some more from your hand, if you want. You then discard
a card, which ends your turn.
Melding.
To meld, you lay down a card or cards in front of you face up when it's your turn; you may keep
melds in your hand, though, if you want. A wild card or wild cards may be used in place of
another card or other cards for a meld. Once a card is melded, it’s supposed to stay melded
unless it’s a wild card that gets traded for.
.......There are basically 2 kinds of melds: groups and sequences. And there are 3 kinds of
groups: natural groups, mixed groups, and wild-card groups. And there are
2 kinds of sequences: natural sequences and mixed sequences.
.......A natural meld is a group (oga) or sequence (osa) that doesn't have any wild cards in it
except a sequence (osa) is still natural if it has only 1 wild card and the wild card is used
naturally. A natural meld of yours would still be natural if another person added
any wild cards to it. A mixed meld is a group (oga) or sequence (osa) that has at least 1 wild
card in it. A wild-card group consists of all wild cards.
.......You may add to your own and other persons’ melds with 1 or more cards when it’s
your turn. When you add to another person's meld, you keep your card or cards in front of you
to score for yourself, not with the meld you’re adding to, and must tell the others to which
meld you're adding (a wild card could get traded for).
The Discard Pile.
The discard pile is made up of discarded cards except for the very first card of
it, which is turned face up from the stock pile. Discarding is placing a card from your
hand face up at the top of the discard pile, which ends your turn. The discard pile is
kept spread out, so you can see all the cards in it.
.......To meld a card you draw from the discard pile, you could use a card or cards from your
hand and/or a card or cards above the card you draw and/or a meld (or melds) (see also “Trading
for Wild Cards”). Below the top card, you should always “show” you can meld the card you’re
drawing before you draw it (see “500 Rummy,” “The Discard Pile,” 4th par.). You may then meld
some more, if you want, from any cards that were in your hand and any cards you took in (and
any wild cards traded for).
.......After the very first draw of a hand, a wild card in the discard pile may be drawn
in only a few ways. (Note 1 of 2, see “Trading for Wild Cards,” 5th par.: Among other things,
this helps keep someone from taking up in any way a wild card too easily; which could’ve
helped him/her go out too easily, which would’ve disturbed any other players who were melding a
lot.)
.......You may, then, draw a wild card from the discard pile only if it or a
switched wild card (see "Trading While Drawing," 1st par.) is melded very naturally
toward any sequence (osa) or melded toward any wild-card group (oga), even if it’s
the top card. Very naturally in very naturally toward any sequence (osa) means
melding a wild card naturally; and having the wild card end up with 2 natural cards
(connectively just) below it or above it, or 1 natural card below it and above it.
Toward means in (a new or anyone’s) or to an end of (anyone’s sequence
(osa)) or to (anyone’s wild-card group (oga)) (and note “Sequences,” 6th par.).
With an 8 of hearts from your hand, you could draw a wild 9 of hearts and add both to
another person’s 5, 6, and 7 of hearts sequence, the 7, 8, and 9 not having to be
physically connected.
.......You may always take in a wild card from the discard pile if you draw (or call rummy
with) a card and meld it without any sort of help from the wild card you take in. You may then
do with the wild card anything you want. (“A wild card further up” pertains to “a
wild card further up from a card you might end up drawing (or calling rummy with) from
the discard pile.”) You could meld a wild card further up melding it very naturally
toward any sequence (osa) or melding it toward any wild-card group (oga). For the
only other ways you’re allowed to use a wild card further up, these ways pertaining to
only drawing, see the 2nd par. of “Trading While Drawing.”
.......Instead of drawing a card just to add it to a meld, you may call rummy with the
card before, or just before, your turn. See "Going Rummy."
Melds
Wild Cards and Aces.
Wild cards are cards that may be used in place other cards. A wild card may represent a rank
for a group (oga), or a rank and suit for a sequence (osa). There are usually 4 wild cards. The
rank and color of the wild cards are determined by the upcard, the first wild card. If a red 5
were turned face up then all red 5's would be wild.
.......When there are 4 wild cards, they’re worth 100 points each. (For a wild card, you
wouldn’t also score the regular point value of the card. For example, a wild red 5 is worth 100
points, not 105 points.) Aces are worth 100 points each unless they’re wild.
.......If an ace, queen, or 10 is turned up at the beginning of a hand then all 8 cards of the
rank are wild. All 8 queens or 10's would be worth 200 points each; all 8 aces would be
worth 300 points each.
.......For the very first draw of a hand, the person at the dealer’s left may draw the wild
card of the discard pile and use it anyway he/she wants, even keep it in his/her hand. After
the very first draw of a hand, a wild card in the discard pile may be drawn in only a few
ways; see “The Discard Pile,” 3rd and 4th pars.
.......When melding a wild card, you must tell the others the ways it’s being used.
Groups.
Your 1- and 2-card group additions and 3-card groups are worth 10 points for each
face card and 10, 5 points for each 9 to 2, 100 points for each ace, and points for each wild
card.
.......With a 4- or more card group, natural cards aren’t scored individually. A natural 4-,
5-, 6-, 7-, or 8-card group is worth 100, 300, 600, 1700, or 4000 points, respectively. A mixed
4-, 5-, 6-, 7-, or 8-card group is worth 50, 150, 300, 500, or 600 points, respectively, plus
points for each wild card. Important: If any cards of the same rank as the wild cards, yet of
the other color, were combined with any wild cards, the group (oga) would only be mixed (not
natural, and could contain no more than 4 cards).
.......A group of aces is scored differently, though. Each ace and any wild cards would only be
scored individually except a natural group of 5, 6, 7, or 8 aces would be worth a flat 1000,
1500, 2500, or 8000 points, respectively.
.......A person’s group may not be more than 8 cards long (or 4 cards long if with a rank in
which 4 cards are wild). You may still build a group of yours up to 8 (or 4) cards after
anyone adds to it. And you could add cards to another person’s group that has nearly reached or
reached its limit.
.......Per rank, you may have only either 1 group or 1 group addition, yet what
you have may be increased of course up to 8 (or 4) cards. An exception is with a rank in which
4 cards are wild and the other 4 cards are natural. You may then have of the same rank a
wild-card group (oga), and a natural or mixed group (oga).
.......A wild card in a mixed group (oga) must remain unless someone trades for it. Of
course within the same rank, you may not combine a wild-card group (oga) with a natural or
mixed group (oga).
.......A group addition consists of a card or cards that have been added to another
person's group. A group addition is considered a group if it grows to 3 or more cards.
.......Note this and “Sequences,” 2nd to last par.: If all 8 (or 4) natural cards of a rank are
melded, you may not meld a wild card for a natural or mixed group (oga) of this rank
unless you’re only switching. For example, “if all 8 aces are melded, you may not meld a
wild card as representing an ace” unless you’re only switching for a wild card already
representing an ace.
Sequences.
Your 1- and 2-card sequence additions and 3-card sequences are worth 10 points
for each face card and 10, 5 points for each 9 to 2, 100 points for each ace, and points for
each wild card.
.......With any 4- or more card sequence, natural cards, except an ace, aren’t scored
individually. A natural 4-, 5-, 6-, 7-, 8-, 9-, 10-, 11-, 12-, or 13-card sequence is worth
100, 300, 600, 1000, 1500, 2000, 2500, 3500, 5000, or 10,000 points, respectively, plus
points for any wild card and ace. (A sequence is still natural if it has only 1 wild card and
the wild card is used naturally.) A mixed 4-, 5-, 6-, 7-, 8-, 9-, 10-, 11-, 12-, or
13-card sequence is worth 50, 150, 300, 500, 600, 700, 1000, 1100, 1200, or 1600 points,
respectively, plus points for each wild card and an ace.
.......Between any 2 of your sequences in the same suit, for every 3 consecutive matching
natural cards, you’ll score 500 extra points. If you had 2 sequences of the 5, 6, and 7 of
hearts, you would score 500 extra points. If you also had both 8's of hearts, you
couldn’t score again for the matching 6, 7, and 8 of hearts sequences; however, you would score
again if you also had both 9's and 10's of hearts. Matching cards may be wild if
they’re used naturally. For matching, a 5 and 6 of hearts addition and a 7 of hearts addition
must be physically combined (completely consecutive).
.......An ace may rank above a king or below a 2 for a sequence.\ The sequence, 2, ace, king
isn’t allowed.\ A sequence (including entirely all the additions) may have up to 13 (not 14)
cards.
.......You may not split sequences (osas). And a wild card in a sequence (osa) must remain
unless someone trades for it. (If a sequence (osa) is yours and has a wild card, not
used naturally, of yours on either end, your entire meld is mixed.)
.......Every sequence must be and stay in a “simple” consecutive order.\ If anyone’s 8
of hearts were added to anyone’s 5, 6, and 7 of hearts, then the next card added by anyone to
that end of the sequence must be a 9 of hearts or wild card representing a 9 of hearts (not
another 8).
.......A sequence addition consists of a card or cards that have been added to another
person's sequence or sequence addition. A sequence addition is also considered a sequence if it
grows to 3 or more cards and belongs to the same person.
.......You may not stop “another person's” (3- or more card) sequence by adding a wild
card unnaturally. If another person had a sequence of a 3 and 4 of hearts, wild card, you
couldn’t stop it by adding a wild card representing a 6 of hearts.
.......You may connect, perhaps not physically, sequences and sequence additions while
you’re adding a card or cards. You could connect “another person's” sequence, 3 and 4 of
hearts, wild card, to anyone’s addition, 8 and 9 of hearts. You would have to add a 6 of
hearts, yet you could use a wild card to represent a 7 of hearts. If 2 sequences are your own
and you want to connect them, you must physically combine them, yet you don't have to
add any extra cards.\ Trading for a wild card naturally at the very end of a sequence
would be considered adding a card for connecting sequences.\ You could also connect sequences
using a rummy card or two choosing only one sequence until actually melding the
card(s), trading for any end wild cards if you want (can see “Going Rummy,” 6th par.,
6th sentence).\ (There’s no disconnecting at all, like just because either of 2 sequences
changed in any way.\)
.......If 2 identical cards are melded, you may not meld a wild card as representing one
for a sequence (osa) unless you’re only switching.
.......See “Wild-Card Groups,” 2nd par., 1st sentence. (Because for example, if you designated
3 or more wild cards as a sequence of all wild cards (designating a suit and ranks,
noting preceding par.) or added 3 or more wild cards to another person's sequence (osa)
(noting “Sequences,” 8th par.), “your sequence would have to be considered as a mixed
sequence.”)
Wild-Card Groups.
A wild-card group consists of all wild cards. A wild-card group of 3 cards when there
are 4 wild cards is worth 600 points; a wild-card group of all 4 wild cards is worth 1200
points. If queens or 10's are wild, a wild-card group of 5, 6, 7, or 8 cards is worth
1500, 2000, 2500, or 10,000 points total, respectively. If aces are wild, a wild-card
group of 5, 6, 7, or 8 aces is worth 2500, 3000, 3500, or 10,000 points total,
respectively.
.......If you’re melding 3 or more wild cards at the same time, you should most probably simply
meld them as a wild-card group for probably 800 points counting the no-wild-card bonus.
(Because for example, if you designated 3 or more wild cards as a non-wild-card group or added
3 or more wild cards to another person’s non-wild-card group (noting “Groups,” 5th and 8th
pars.), “your group would have to be considered as a mixed group.”)
Trading for Wild Cards
.......You may trade cards from your hand for wild cards in your own and other
persons' melds when it's your turn. If anyone had a sequence of a 5 and 6 of hearts, wild card,
you could trade a 7 of hearts from your hand for the wild card. When you’ve traded for a wild
card, you may use it anyway you want, even keep it in your hand. You may even trade a wild card
you traded for.
.......A wild card is frozen (can’t be traded for) from everyone if it’s melded
naturally in a sequence (osa) or melded in a wild-card group (oga). If a wild card isn’t
frozen, anyone is allowed to trade for it. Any natural card of a rank may be traded for any
wild card in a mixed group (oga) of the rank.
.......You may even trade, or switch, wild cards for wild cards. You may trade a wild
card from your hand for another wild card that’s in a meld unless the melded wild card is
frozen. If anyone had a sequence of a 5 and 6 of hearts, wild card, not used naturally;
you could switch for the wild card. You may then do with the other wild card anything you want.
You could keep it in your hand to possibly use naturally for a sequence (osa) later. You may
even trade a wild card you traded for.
.......You may never trade for a natural card.
.......The following are extra things you can do: (Note 2 of 2, see “The Discard Pile,” 3rd
par.: The following likely help get wild cards melded very naturally toward sequences
(asas) and melded toward wild-card groups (agas).)
Trading While Drawing.
You may draw and trade a card from the discard pile for a wild card. You may draw and
trade a wild card from the discard pile only if it or a wild card after switching it is
melded very naturally toward any sequence (osa) or melded toward any wild-card
group (oga) (see “The Discard Pile,” 4th par.). (Switched wild cards are wild cards traded with
one another, and after switching, you could keep switching. You may trade or switch for only
non-frozen melded wild cards.)
.......Furthermore, to meld a card you draw from the discard pile (or possibly a switched wild
card if drawing a wild card) (and maybe to switch 1 or more melded wild cards around), you
could trade and/or switch from your hand and/or from the discard pile (with any cards
further up). A wild card further up could help meld a card you draw (or a switched
wild card) only if this wild card or a switched wild card is melded very naturally toward
any sequence (osa) or melded toward any wild-card group (oga).
The End of a Hand
Going Out.
To go out you must discard a card and it must be unmeldable. If you discarded the only
card in your hand and it was at that moment meldable (or tradable/switchable) or if you meld
the rest of your cards, you're considered floating (yet not out). (With only 1 card, you
could do as usual any trading and/or switching you'd like). (Disregard the discard pile except
a card you may have just discarded.) If you're floating, you may not draw only the top
card of the discard pile if it's unmeldable.
.......When someone goes out, the hand ends, and the points are reckoned. You score 200
extra points for going out. You score 300 points for going out on your first turn. You may go
out on your first turn without drawing anything, and you wouldn’t discard either; you would
meld your last card (you could still go rummy before your turn, and trade for any
non-frozen wild cards); you score 500 points for this.
.......It’s perfectly all right to meld your remaining cards except 1 card in such a way so
that this card is unmeldable, so then you can discard it and go out. You may ask any other
player(s) how many cards are in their hand(s) at any time. You may also check how many cards
remain in the stock pile at any time.
.......If the stock pile runs out of cards, there’s no more going out (and with only 1
card left, you could discard it if it's unmeldable). The hand continues using only the
discard pile. You don't have to draw; only if you draw, and with any cards left, you discard.
If you don’t want to draw, yet want to meld, you may just lay off any cards.
.......If the discard pile also becomes exhausted, the hand continues, and everyone may
still lay off cards and trade for wild cards.
.......After someone drawing the last card of the stock pile finishes his/her turn, each
person, thereafter, may pass when it’s their turn. Not melding would be considered a pass.
(And drawing only the top card of the discard pile without melding anything would be
considered a pass.) When everyone has passed in a row, without anyone melding, the hand ends,
and the points are reckoned. (Trading merely a wild card for a wild card wouldn’t prolong the
play unless it were used naturally in a sequence (osa); trading a natural card for a wild card
would prolong the play.)
No-Wild-Card Bonus.
This is a bonus of 200 points for not having any wild cards in any of your melds when a hand is
over. You must have at least 1 meld laid down, or a 1- or 2-card addition which is also a meld.
You can't get caught with any wild cards in your hand, either. You still receive the bonus if
all your wild cards are used naturally in any sequences (osas) and/or used in a wild-card group
(oga).
Scoring.
When a hand is over, you score points for going out and for the no-wild-card
bonus if either or both apply to you, and for your melds laying down. For your melds laying
down, see “Melds” and the last paragraph of “Scoring.”
.......For any cards left in your hand, you subtract 10 points for each face card and 10, 5
points for each 9 to 2, and points for what the wild cards and aces are worth. The cards of any
melds left in your hand are only counted off individually.
.......The game is played to 10,000 points when 2 people play; 7,000 points with 3 people; and
4,000 points with 4 or 5 people. A running total of each person’s score is kept on paper. At
the end of a hand, someone at or above the finishing point and with the highest score
wins the game. The winner wins from each other person the difference between their final
scores. A game would end in a tie if the top scores at the end of a hand were at or above the
finishing point and happened to be identical. If there’s a tie, each non-winner would lose only
a single amount.
.......When you’ve added to one of your own melds, your meld is scored as if it were laid down
all at the same time; and a meld of yours that was mixed, yet is now natural, is scored as a
natural meld, and vice versa. When any persons have added to any of any others’ melds, for
scoring, each person’s own cards alone are all that determine the length of his/her melds and
whether his/her melds are natural or mixed. (If someone happens to have 3 or more wild cards as
a mixed meld, they would be scored as a mixed meld; see the last paragraph of both “Sequences”
and "Wild-Card Groups.") If another person added to one of your sequences and, then, you added
to his/her sequence addition, your addition would be scored separately from your
sequence.\
Going Rummy
.......When you notice a natural card in the discard pile that could be (and would have to be)
added to anyone’s meld without the help of any cards from your hand, you may “call rummy.” To
call rummy, you just say "Rummy." You then tell the others which card(s) they should note as
your rummy card(s); you also tell the others to which meld (sequence (osa), group) you
want to use the card(s), and that’s all. (If you call rummy, you must be intending to do (if
possible) something you perceived as a rummy, mentioning the card (or cards) and meld for what
you perceived.)
.......You may say "Rummy" at any time. If you say “Rummy” between turns, or just before your
own turn before you draw which is also between turns, you do your rummy right away.
However if you say “Rummy” during anyone’s turn (or after another call of rummy), you wait
until his/her turn (or the other rummy) is over before you actually do your rummy.
.......If you call rummy during anyone's turn or rummy, the person isn’t supposed to take back
any cards he/she laid down except to trade for any wild cards.
.......If you can still do any of your call of rummy by using as many of your chosen cards
you still can regarding your chosen meld, after anyone's turn during which you may have
called your rummy and after any other rummies, you must do that rummy. (For an allowed
exception with a group, see the 4th to last par. of “Going Rummy.”) (If a rummy is called
during a turn, the person whose turn it is can still go out, of course, which would immediately
end the hand.) (If you choose cards that are a 3- or more card meld, they’ll automatically be
your chosen meld (can’t choose another meld); and if anyone thinks a preceding rummy might
shorten it to 1 or 2 cards, he/she could call rummy with 1 or 2 of the cards.)
.......To actually do your rummy (and properly), first you “point out” to the other
player(s) your rummy card (or cards, all you can still meld) and your chosen meld, second you
“detach” a card or cards from the discard pile from (including) your rummy card (or bottom-most
rummy card), third you simply “meld” your rummy card (or cards), fourth you “take in” any
detached cards. And last you “continue your rummy as if it were a turn of yours, yet without
discarding.” Which means (a) you may meld some more from any cards that were in your hand and
any cards you took in (and any wild cards traded for). And (b) you may trade for
1 or more wild cards (see “Trading for Wild Cards”). When all rummies are finished (and no more
calls), the game continues with the person whose turn it would’ve been, and still is, as if no
one had gone rummy.
.......By calling rummy, you could also add 2 or more natural cards from the discard pile to a
meld. You could add an 8 and 9 of hearts to a 5, 6, and 7 of hearts. The 9 of hearts could be
further down in the discard pile than the 8 of hearts. You must specify enough cards to do a
rummy. And when you're to do your rummy, you must add as many of these cards as you can
to the meld you chose. You may call rummy with an entire 3- or more card meld within the
discard pile (and would do the rummy as long as the meld remains at least 3 cards all in the
discard pile itself), and if the meld were a sequence, you could meld it to any melded
sequence(s) (and/or sequence addition(s)) if you decide while actually melding it,
trading for any end wild cards if you want. (In the above example, if before you were to
do your rummy, either 8 of hearts were added to the sequence, you would still have to do that 9
of hearts rummy.\)
.......For multiple calls of rummy, the order in which each is done (if able) is determined by
when the calls were made, not by where the rummy cards are in the discard pile. If you
call a rummy, you must do it unless a preceding rummy (or the current turn) prevents you. When
a card being discarded touches the discard pile, you may call rummy for that card. If 2 or more
players called rummy simultaneously, figure the order by going clockwise from the player whose
turn it’s about to be or clockwise from the in-turn player.
.......If you create any rummies when melding any cards or when discarding a card, you
yourself may not call any of these rummies until the end of someone else’s turn. Yet you may
call rummy at any time with any cards in the discard pile you or someone else overlooked or
disregarded (e.g., a 9) when calling a corresponding sequence rummy (e.g., an 8 for a
5,6,7 sequence).\ (If, for example, a 5,6,7 sequence with an 8 in the discard pile rummy hadn’t
just been created by you with a 10 further down and you discarded a 9, you could call
rummy with the 8 and add the 9, yet then couldn’t call rummy with the 10.\ And if ever, for
example, you added to a 5,6,7 an 8 there being a 9,10 in the discard pile and someone else took
up in any way the 9 and added it to your 8, you could call rummy with the 10 (wouldn’t relate
to you melding a group; e.g., 888, 88).\)
.......You may call rummy again, or back to back, with any cards further down in the discard
pile. You must do each rummy one at a time in the order you called them doing each rummy you're
able to do when you're to do each of them. (If you called rummy, then someone else, then
you again, to do the first rummy, you would take up only from the bottom-most card of
the first rummy; then the other person would do their rummy taking up similarly; then
you could do the third call of rummy assuming you didn’t just create the rummy (see
preceding par.) and if without the help of any cards then in your hand. While melding, you may
not block a rummy of yours by melding any of your rummy cards’ identical cards to the
sequence (osa) you chose. Anyone could call rummy, or even call rummy again with any of the
same rummy cards, if he/she thought any rummy cards might get hindered (blocked,
possibly separated), to meld any of the potentially hindered rummy cards to a different meld or
to meld with any cards further up; just like usual by the original caller any of the original
rummy that ends up left must be done, and then any rummy or part rummy further up is
disregarded.) You could go rummy more than twice.
.......You may call rummy with (draw, or take in) a natural card which can be traded for
a wild card. You could then do with the wild card anything you want. You would do the rest of
your rummy, as usual, as if it were a turn of yours, yet without discarding. Note: You may not
call rummy then trade any card from the discard pile for a wild card using the wild card
to help meld another card in the discard pile. (Having melded your initial rummy card or
cards, you could meld any cards taken in and any traded-for wild cards as you’d like.)
.......If you called rummy during anyone's turn or rummy, everyone should note this paragraph
or the next. After calling rummy with a natural card for a melded group, you may have to wait
until any turn or other rummies are over. Nevertheless (as long as the natural card is still in
the discard pile), you must simply add the natural card or trade it (not mentioning a
trade before you actually do your rummy) for any wild card that’s in, or probably still
in (any wild cards could’ve been traded for), “any mixed group (oga) of the rank (the
exception mentioned in “Going Rummy,” 4th par.)”.
.......With the sequence (osa) you chose, no one can force you to trade for any, or any
different, wild cards by melding any wild cards unnaturally. Another person could, though, meld
any cards naturally, blocking any rummy cards of yours.
.......You could call rummy with a wild card in the discard pile only if it would be melded
very naturally toward any sequence (osa) or melded toward any wild-card group
(oga) (see “The Discard Pile,” 4th par., sentences 2-4).
.......You could call rummy to trade a wild card from the discard pile only if it would
be, immediately, frozen when traded very naturally in any sequence (osa) (see
“The Discard Pile," 4th par., sentences 2 and 4). You could then do with the other wild card
anything you want. With a sequence 8 and 9 of hearts and wild 10 not used naturally melded by
anyone, you could call rummy with a wild 10 of hearts. (To help meld a wild rummy card very
naturally in any sequence (osa), you could from the discard pile add and/or trade any natural
rummy cards.)
Supplementary Notes
(for 10,000 Rummy: Sublime Rummy: Masterpiece Version)
.......Everyone, except the dealer, has the option to cut. People tend to want to cut often
since the cards are dealt in piles. (See “The Deal,” 1st, 3rd, and 5th paragraphs.)
.......Just switching wild cards unnaturally wouldn't prolong play however any
going rummy would for the subsection "The Play," option 3, first clause of last
sentence.
.......There are usually 4 wild cards, instead of always 8, so the game is more like 500 Rummy.
(See “Wild Cards and Aces,” 1st and 3rd pars.)
.......A group would be considered mixed, not natural, for the “Important:” note
in “Groups,” 2nd par. since it would be too easy, if going for it, to match up cards this way,
especially if, which isn’t the case, the wild cards would be frozen, a plus toward the
no-wild-card bonus, and much easier to take up from the discard pile.
.......It’s a bit harder to go out since to go out you must discard a card and it must be
unmeldable. You're considered floating (having no cards yet not out) if you get
rid of the only card (or cards) in your hand which is a rather fascinating part of the game.
And sometimes a person can make it end up so that the rest of all the cards can be added to
groups so that the rest of the stock pile gets drawn with many more points probably being
scored. (See “Going Out,” 1st par.)
.......The last 3 pars. of “Going Out” help meld many last cards; and when all 104 cards become
melded, it looks really cool.
.......By “calling rummy” in this game, you can add more than just the top card of the discard
pile to a meld. (See “Going Rummy,” 1st and 6th pars.)
.......Your melds should be melded neatly and usually in a standard way. Your groups and group
additions should usually be kept in a row, like AAA, 9999, 7, 2222 (from A to 2, from your left
to right). Your sequences should usually be kept in a row above your groups and group
additions, or to the left of them without much melding space, like AKQ, 9876, 76543. And you
should usually really try to keep your sequence additions in very logical places.
.......To understand about melding wild cards from the discard pile, traverse among the 4th
par. of “Wild Cards and Aces,” 3rd, 4th, and 5th pars. of “The Discard Pile,” last 3 pars. of
“Trading for Wild Cards,” last 2 pars. of “Going Rummy,” abbreviations oga, osa,
agas, asas, and \ symbol.
.......This game could be played with Bonnie Blue's 8 special rummy cards which were
designed for Bonnie Blue's card deck. If the upcard was a special card then a card would be
turned up and placed on top of it as the new upcard until a non-special card was facing.
Abbreviations and Symbol
oga or group addition
osa or sequence addition
osas or sequence additions
agas and group additions
asas and sequence additions
\ Any sequence referred to in the preceding sentence can pertain to a sequence
addition.
Variations
for 10,000 Rummy: Sublime Rummy: Masterpiece Version
These rules coincide with the rules above.
1. Playing to Win.
The winner of a game wins 1 game point. The winner doesn't win from each other person the
difference between their final scores. If there happened to be a tie, each winner would split
the game point.
2. Must Go Out to Win.
The winner of a game wins 1 game point. The winner doesn't win from each other person
the difference between their final scores.
.......You must go out with a score at or above the finishing point to win. You can win
even if any other players end up with higher scores. Going out and not reaching the finishing
point doesn't count towards a win.
.......(This variation was found from John McLeod used with his permission with many thanks
from his
"500 Rum"
page which is on
the Card Games web site
at
http://www.pagat.com/
which is extremely vast.)
3. Melding All (Your Cards) to Go Out.
If you have 1 card in your hand and you discard it, you're considered floating (yet not
out).
4. Michigan Rummy.
When a player goes out, he/she scores the total points remaining in the other players' hands,
including of course what he/she has melded. For the cards left in the other players' hands,
points aren't subtracted from their scores. If a player for any reason says he/she can go out
and doesn't, each other player has 100 points immediately added to their score. Every deal is
played out as usual.
5. Polish Rummy.
For your draw, you may take the entire discard pile without having to meld the bottom
card.
6. Persian 10,000.
Two players play against 2 players, and partners sit across from one another. One partner of
each partnership keeps all the partnership's melds in front of him/her; so each partnership's
melds are as one. At the end of each hand, each partnership's points are scored together. A
game is played to 10,000 points.
.......You may not ask any other player(s) how many cards are in their hand(s) at any time. You
may not check how many cards remain in the stock pile at any time.
7. Money Cards.
If you meld both a natural queen and 7 of hearts, you get 100 extra points. If you also
meld both the other natural queen and 7 of hearts, you get another 100 extra points.
When someone goes out, each natural queen of hearts caught in your hand is worth minus 50
points.
8. Doubling.
This variation is for 2 players only. Only play this just for fun! The amount lost is often
astronomical, and if you're good you would really be cheating someone! (A Backgammon's doubling
cube may be used.) Each played-out hand is initially for 1 point. You play 2 hands and again
just for fun.
.......When choosing the first dealer if the 2 cards drawn are the same rank, there's what's
called an automatic double which is automatically accepted by both players. Only 1
automatic double is permitted.
.......A player may double the stakes just before the other player draws. A player may not
double 2 times in a row; he/she must wait until maybe the other player redoubles. When a player
is doubled, he/she can except to play for the higher stakes or fold and lose what's already
been played for.
.......However if a player is doubled, he/she may redouble immediately, called a beaver,
and at the same time being the player allowed to double next.
.......If a hand is played out completely and if a player loses by 500 to 995 points, he/she is
gammoned and loses twice as much. If a player loses by 1000 points or more, he/she is
backgammoned and loses 3 times as much. (A player may say "Wait" before the other player
draws to give themselves time to decide whether to double or not.)
9. Limit-Poker 10,000 MV.
This variation is for 2 players only. Only play this just for fun! There are no irregularities
for one thing! A game is 2 hands and again just for fun. Each player antes 1 chip (of the
smallest unit) before the cards are dealt. After the deal and after the upcard is turned face
up, there's a betting round, the only betting round of the hand.
.......The betting may begin with the player opposite of the dealer. He/she may pass or bet.
If someone bets folding, "equalizing," and raising begins (without being able to just pass if
you're already equalized). Of course you can equalize and raise at the same time.
.......You may bet or raise from 1 chip to the limit 10 chips. You may raise only twice per
hand. Technically there's only 1 bet and the rest are raises. However if you were the one to
bet, you may still raise twice. If neither bets anything at all during the first two turns to
do something, the betting ends there.
.......When the betting is over, the players begin to play out the hand. If you don't think you
have a chance of winning the hand at any time, you may give up and lose the pot.
.......When the hand ends, the points are reckoned to see who won the pot. If there's a tie,
the pot is split and returned to the players.
Wasn't that cool!
You can send the author an email by clicking
here.
Or you could send an email to
Bonnie Blue,
the illustrator of the rummy cards.
Thanks.
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© Copyright 1993-2005 John James Davidson. All Rights Reserved.
